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Placing protection is always a tricky game. Correctly placing gear to safeguard
the leader and minimize the hazard of a fall can make the difference between
a fun day at the crags or a bad trip in the emergency room.
To help prevent the possibility of protection failure it is important that any falls taken do not exceed a fall factor of 1. To be able to insure this, protection should be placed
A potential fall will have the lowest fall factor if the maximum amount of rope is available to catch the shortest possible fall. Any fall that generates a fall factor of 1 should be considered dangerous (!) and above a fall factor of 1, critical (q). A fall factor higher than 1 could possibly generate more energy than your protection can withstand and result in possible failure. |
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