Placing Protection

Placing protection is always a tricky game. Correctly placing gear to safeguard the leader and minimize the hazard of a fall can make the difference between a fun day at the crags or a bad trip in the emergency room.

To help prevent the possibility of protection failure it is important that any falls taken do not exceed a fall factor of 1. To be able to insure this, protection should be placed

  • (1) as soon as possible after leaving the belay,
  • (2) at reasonable distances apart,
  • (3) just before cruxes, and
  • (4) as often as is needed throughout the pitch.

A potential fall will have the lowest fall factor if the maximum amount of rope is available to catch the shortest possible fall.

Any fall that generates a fall factor of 1 should be considered dangerous (!) and above a fall factor of 1, critical (q). A fall factor higher than 1 could possibly generate more energy than your protection can withstand and result in possible failure.



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