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Any climbing rope carrying UIAA certification meets all the minimum safety standards set by the UIAA (Union Internationale Des Association D'Apinisme). This series of tests is used to evaluate a climbing rope's performance characteristics under laboratory controlled conditions. Energy absorption, elongation, and flexibility are only a few of the properties tested.
Impact Force: Probably the most important single statistic on the hang tag, this figure is an accurate indication of how much force a rope is able to absorb to protect the climber in a fall. Since the Impact Force is the maximum load transmitted to the climber and his protection in a fall, the lower the number is the better. The UIAA standard for maximum impact force is 12 kN (2640 lbs.) for single ropes and 8 kN (1760 lbs.) for half ropes.
Falls Held: The UIAA test drops an 80 kg weight 5 meters on 2.8 meters of rope repeatedly at approximately five minute intervals until the rope breaks. To meet the UIAA standard a rope must survive a minimum of five falls. This test is a factor 1.78 fall, simulating a short, severe climbing fall. It represents a theoretical "worst case" fall combining impact forces and the effect of a standard carabiner edge. Since all ropes carrying the UIAA mark are tested in the same manner, this number (UIAA test falls held) indicates a performance comparison that can be made between two different climbing ropes.
Static Elongation is the percentage of a rope's length it will stretch in a static loading situation. The UIAA test hangs an 80 kg (176 lbs.) weight from one meter of rope and measures the percentage the rope stretches. This gives an indication of how much the rope will stretch in a static loading situation (rappelling, lowering, or ascending). The maximum static load stretch allowed by the UIAA is 8% for single ropes and 10% for half ropes.
Tensile Strength is the same as Static Breaking Strength. The rope is stretched until it breaks and the force required to break the rope is measured. Although this is not a UIAA specification, static breaking strength can be used as a comparison of the ultimate strength of the rope.
1997 |
UIAA |
Weight |
Falling |
Maximum |
UIAA Falls |
80 kg |
8.0mm |
Twin |
41g |
80 kg |
10.1 kN |
12 |
7.8% |
8.6mm Excellence |
Double |
48g |
55 kg |
6.3 kN |
9 |
7.6% |
9.6mm Lightning Pro |
Single |
58g |
80 kg |
8.25 kN |
6 |
6.4% |
9.9mm Energizer |
Single |
66g |
80 kg |
8.99 kN |
8 |
7.6% |
10.5mm Accelerator |
Single |
70g |
80 kg |
8.3 kN |
8 |
6.2% |
11mm Enduro |
Single |
77g |
80 kg |
8.1 kN |
11 |
6% |
10.4mm Gymline |
Single |
68g |
80 kg |
7.8kN |
8 |
6.7% |
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| Made in Australia | Tensile Strength | Spool Length |
| 9 mm BW II+Plus | 1800 kg |
200m |
| 10 mm BW II+Plus | 2500 kg |
200m |
| 11 mm BW II+Plus | 3000 kg |
50m/200m |
| 11 mm Assaultline | 3000 kg |
200m |
| 13 mm Superline | 4000 kg |
200m |
| 16 mm Superline | 5700 kg |
100m |
Each batch has an indicator marker running down the centre.
Made in USA |
Tensile Strength |
Min Strength |
Static |
Weight |
| 11.6 mm BW II+Plus | 25 kN |
15.4 kN |
2.5% |
79.4 g |
| 10.6 mm BW II+Plus | 22 kN |
15 kN |
2.6% |
67.2g |
| 9.5 mm BW II+Plus | 18 kN |
12 kN |
2.5% |
54.1g |
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Made in Australia |
Tensile Strength |
Spool Length |
2.5mm |
100 kg |
100 m. |
3mm |
200 kg |
100 m |
4mm+ |
295 kg |
50 m/100 m |
5mm+ |
579 kg |
50 m/100 m |
6mm+ |
772 kg |
50 m/100 m |
7mm+ |
1181 kg |
50 m/100 m. |
8mm+ |
1409 kg |
50 m/100 m |
|
||
5.5mm Titan |
1100 kg |
50m |
+ UIAA Certified
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Made in USA |
Tensile Strength |
Spool Length |
14 mm |
1100 kg |
92m |
25 mm |
2050 kg |
92 m |
50 mm |
2700 kg |
46 m |
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| Made in USA | Tensile Strength |
| 25 mm (1") Climb-Spec Runners | 3000 kg |
| 14 mm (9/16") Climb-Spec Runners | 2000 kg |
| 14 mm (9/16") Titan Runners | 3000 kg |
| Diminishing Sling | 2200 kg |
| 15 cm Quantum Speed Draw | 2200 kg |
| 15 cm Quantum Dog Bone | 2200 kg |
| 15 cm Titan Speed Draw | 2000 kg |
| 15 cm Titan Dog Bone | 2700 kg |
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